🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.